England

Go for a Kip in Craster!

Craster is within the Northumbria coast Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and is about 7 miles from the town of Alnwick inland.

Craster is famed as being the original home of the smoked fish delicacy known as the Kipper.  The fish are smoked in their traditional Craster way in oak barrels, and the original smokehouses are still in use today.  Such is the popularity of Craster Kippers that they are transported all around the country, and salt herring landed there was shipped to mainland Europe.

Crasterharbour01

The original uploader was Nevilley at English Wikipedia., CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

The phrases ‘having a kip’ or ‘going for a kip’ originate from Craster.  Historically the fish were gutted by fishwives from Scotland who lived in kip houses where they would go to have a sleep.  Hence the expressions based around kip for sleep.

The pretty harbour of Craster was built in 1906 by the Craster family as a memorial to Captain Charles Craster. He died on active duty on a mission to Tibet in 1904. It is possible to see the remains of the memorial on the harbour wall.

However, Craster probably has its name from prehistoric earthworks on the ridge called Craster Heugh above the harbour where there is evidence of an ancient camp.

The house that the Craster family lived in was an 18th century house called Craster Tower that was built around a 14th century fortified tower that had had a small mansion added onto the side in the 1600s.  Sadly, Craster Tower is now divided into individual flats and apartments.

To the south, there is Howick Hall and Gardens, the ancestral home of the Grey family who have lived there since the 14th century. The family include Charles the second Earl Grey, whose name is synonymous with Earl Grey Tea rather than his four years in office as a prime minister!  The landscaped gardens are extensive and include a large arboretum of 65 acres are open to the public.

In the opposite direction to Howick Hall is Dunstanburgh Castle, an atmospheric castle ruin on a site that has been used by humans since prehistoric times.  The editor of Britain Express, David Ross describes it as ‘without doubt, one of the most striking and evocative medieval castles in England.’  I’d guess that is quite a statement from someone who’s no doubt seen a few castles.

Craster has a small harbour from which it is possible to see the ruins of the castle.  The village is spread along the low clifftop, and there are plenty of green spaces and the countryside beyond. You are never far from a stunning sea view in Craster.  What makes it special is its heritage, Kippers, Earl Grey Tea and more besides.

Sadly the village shop has closed, for groceries, there is a Spar Shop in Longhoughton and a garage in Embleton for petrol and groceries. There is also a store in Embleton – Moody’s that delivers milk and newspapers to Craster Mon-Saturday.

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