Scotland

Arisaig – A Safe Place with a Chequered History

Arisaig is a village at the south-western tip of the Arisaig peninsula, at the head of Loch nan Ceall. It’s a typical Highland village with widely spaced houses and dry stone walls and is a short drive from Oransay. The name Arisaig means the Safe Place, and it is centred on the sheltered shore of Loch nan Ceall or Loch of the Cells on the west coast of the Scottish Highlands.  The village appears to nestle at the base of rocky mountains behind. The village spreads west along the Rhu road and north along the shore towards Morar.

Arisaig main street - geograph.org.uk - 774503

Dave Fergusson / Arisaig main street

The history there harks back to the Vikings and following raids by the Vikings, Arisaig became part of ‘the kingdom of the isles’, a Norwegian dependency. Then in the 11th century, Malcolm III of Scotland formed an agreement with Magnus Baelegs the Norwegian King to move the border to the coast, thus separating Arisaig from the islands. In the early part of the 12th century, a Norse-Gael called Somerled and believed to hail from Irish royalty became the owner of Arisaig and the surrounding region. There is not a reliable record of how that happened, but by some point in the 1140s, the King of Scotland’s control of the region had ceased. In the middle of that century, Somerled launched a coup in the Kingdom of the Isles, which led to it joining his other possessions as a single state, reuniting Arisaig and islands to the same kingdom. When Somerled’s died Norwegians again gained power, but in practice, it remained divided; the part containing Arisaig was known as Garmoran and ruled by the MacRory clan who were a faction among Somerled’s heirs. Then later, Garmoran became a Scottish crown dependency.  The story goes on, but this snippet of the early history gives an idea of the place.

The main road that goes to and beyond Arisaig has recently been much improved making travel around the area much easier and quicker. The road is the famous Road to the Isles which terminates at Mallaig with the ferry crossing to Skye.

There is a marina at Arisaig, and it’s an ideal location for sailing around the islands.  Sea kayaking is also popular from there as there are plenty of challenges for keen experienced kayakers.  The beach is sandy and offers far-reaching views to the islands.

The area is rich with wildlife especially sea birds and the Land, Sea and Islands Visitor Centre has an exhibition celebrating the social and natural history of the area with old and new with photographic displays and artefacts.

There are a convenience shop and other shops that include a post office; other amenities include cafes, tea shops and a marine shop.

So why is it special?  The ancient history adds interest to the location, and the views are said to be spectacular.  It’s certainly a stunning place to look at.

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